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The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE FOUR |
A
DREAM BECAME A REALITY
With a sense of wonder, I approached Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval (The Ideal Palace of the Postman Cheval). I was enticed by a short article I had read in a magazine and had no idea of what to expect upon arrival. It's not your typical
tourist Mecca but well worth the drive to search it out. Located
of the
A7 autoroute (Autoroute du Soleil) southeast of Lyon in the
Drôme département
in the sleepy village of Hauterives, it is easy to miss. In fact,
there
were few posted signs, and we had to stop to ask several people before
we found
someone who knew where it was located. We entered a nondescript building
that included a ticket counter and a gift shop, having no idea what we
would see after paying the entry fee and exiting the far door into a
park-like setting. I was transfixed. There in front of me
stood an immense haunting and magical construction that I could never
have imagined. This strange embellished palace, or temple, had
grown almost organically over thirty-three years as Ferdinand Cheval
slowly and painstakingly orchestrated his compelling dream.
He diligently continued this nightly
construction until his
retirement at age sixty when he was finally able to devote his daytime
hours, as well, to his intricate habitat, complete with his own burial
tomb. When the village denied his request to be buried there, he
deemed his palace complete as the age of seventy-six and spent the last
eight years of his life creating an equally unusual and ornate tomb to
appropriately contain his remains in the local cemetery. The
hike to the cemetery is rather long. I was told it was about a
kilometer away, but I think it was farther. I walked for thirty
minutes, but with the afternoon hear, I never found it and returned to
the car. Maybe next time.
What's so startling about
this? The man had a vision and acted upon it. He never gave
up though others criticized him. He had no formal training in
engineering, masonry or art, yet the structure has endured and remains
in excellent condition, bound together with lime, mortar and
cement. You can walk into it, climb the staircases, wander
through the interior labyrinth and read philosophical quotations etched
into the cement walls and door frames. There are sculpted
turrets,
whimsical animals, mythological figures, forms from nature, embedded
shells, religious and historical references from Christianity to
Hinduism ~ all incorporated into the richly texture décor.
Each of the four Baroque-like façades tells its own compelling
story. Le
Palais
Idéal is open all year, Sundays and holidays
included, with the exception
of the following: Christmas Day, December 31 and January 15-31. It is located at 8, rue du Palais, Hauterives. Outside the grounds, the Galaure River flows by and creates a scenic park-like area for picnicking or walking. [photos copyrighted by Jo Anne Marquardt. All rights reserved.]
Jo Anne Marquardt
is a true francophile and travels to France as often as possible.
She keeps illustrated journals during her visits that have become the books you see below. And note the beautiful cover artwork ~ also by a very talented Jo Anne. Order any or all of these enjoyable travel memoires of France from Amazon.com.
SPONSORING
THIS ISSUE
The
elegant Château
de la Caillotière is a weekly rental property with six
splendid guest rooms,
tennis, a swimming pool, a horse and pony ~ and offers you riding lessons ~ on 70 acres. Located in the Pays de la Loire not far from Angers and Saumur, it's convenient for visiting the royal Loire château and the charming towns along the Loire River. And don't forget the spectacular wines and vineyards of the Loire Valley! Click on the photo or the link above to learn more or book your stay.
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