The Independent Traveler's Newsletter                                      PAGE FOUR

A DREAM BECAME A REALITY                                   
                                                                                                   
by Jo Anne Marquardt

Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval - copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reserved.





With a sense of wonder, I approached Le Palais Idéal du Facteur Cheval (The Ideal Palace of the Postman Cheval).  I was enticed by a short article I had read in a magazine and had no idea of what to expect upon arrival.

It's not your typical tourist Mecca but well worth the drive to search it out.  Located of the A7 autoroute (Autoroute du Soleil) southeast of Lyon in the Drôme département in the sleepy village of Hauterives, it is easy to miss.  In fact, there were few posted signs, and we had to stop to ask several people before we found someone who knew where it was located.

We entered a nondescript building that included a ticket counter and a gift shop, having no idea what we would see after paying the entry fee and exiting the far door into a park-like setting.  I was transfixed.  There in front of me stood an immense haunting and magical construction that I could never have imagined.  This strange embellished palace, or temple, had grown almost organically over thirty-three years as Ferdinand Cheval slowly and painstakingly orchestrated his compelling dream.





In
April of 1879, while Cheval was making his daily rounds as the village postman, he stumbled upon a strange-looking rock that he picked up an took home.  This rock triggered an old dream of his to create a fantastical castle or palace, and at the age of forty-three, with his first inspirational rock, he finally began to build.  Each day he collected stones as he delivered the mail.  As he began to collect more stones than his pockets could hold, he carried a basket, and finally, he pushed a wheel barrow.  These were sandstone rocks, hardened by the passage of time.

He diligently continued this nightly construction until his retirement at age sixty when he was finally able to devote his daytime hours, as well, to his intricate habitat, complete with his own burial tomb.  When the village denied his request to be buried there, he deemed his palace complete as the age of seventy-six and spent the last eight years of his life creating an equally unusual and ornate tomb to appropriately contain his remains in the local cemetery.  The hike to the cemetery is rather long.   I was told it was about a kilometer away, but I think it was farther.  I walked for thirty minutes, but with the afternoon hear, I never found it and returned to the car.  Maybe next time.

Le Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reserved.Le Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reservedLe Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reserved

What's so startling about this?  The man had a vision and acted upon it.  He never gave up though others criticized him.  He had no formal training in engineering, masonry or art, yet the structure has endured and remains in excellent condition, bound together with lime, mortar and cement.  You can walk into it, climb the staircases, wander through the interior labyrinth and read philosophical quotations etched into the cement walls and door frames.  There are sculpted turrets, whimsical animals, mythological figures, forms from nature, embedded shells, religious and historical references from Christianity to Hinduism ~ all incorporated into the richly texture décor.  Each of the four Baroque-like façades tells its own compelling story.

Was the man a genius or a lunatic?  Art Brut and Outsider Art come to mind.  He was certainly a man outside of his time.  As Le Palais continues to inspire us today, it also influenced artists and innovatorrs of the past such as Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst and André Breton.  With courage, focus and will, Cheval created a lasting monument for those of us fortunate enough to visit this remarkable site. He had a long, focused and productive life from April 19, 1836 to August 19, 1924.  Ferdinand Cheval has inspired me to hold onto my dreams and believe in the possible. 

Le Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reservedLe Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reservedLe Palais Idéal.  Copyright Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reserved


Le Palais Idéal is open all year, Sundays and holidays included, with the exception
 of the following:  Christmas Day, December 31 and January 15-31.
 It is located at 8, rue du Palais,  Hauterives.  Outside the grounds, the Galaure River
 flows by and creates a scenic park-like area for picnicking or walking.  

[photos copyrighted by Jo Anne Marquardt.  All rights reserved.]


Jo Anne Marquardt is a true francophile and travels to France as often as possible.
She keeps illustrated journals during her visits that have become the books you see below. 
And note the beautiful cover artwork ~ also by a very talented Jo Anne.
Order any or all of these enjoyable travel memoires of France from Amazon.com.     

 

                                                                                                                    

BOOKS ABOUT FRANCEand MORE AT AMAZON !  Click here

Order by clicking on the Amazon banner.





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Located in the Pays de la Loire not far from Angers and Saumur, it's convenient for
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Click on the photo or the link above to learn more or book your stay.




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