Seine-Maritime

The coast of Haute Normandie is predominantly occupied by the Seine-Maritime département, with the River Seine meandering along from its source near St-Germain-Source-Seine in Burgundy, through Paris in a big arch, and then into Normandy past Vernon in the Eure near Monet's home and gardens at Giverny to its mouth at France's second largest port, Le Havre.  Historic castles, abbeys and elegant homes line the banks of the Seine for some 200 kilometers.  Coastal holiday and fishing towns such as Dieppe and Fécamp draw travelers, and the area is only two hours from Paris making the entire coast a popular beach destination.
                                                                                                                                 At the source of the Seine

The département is the home also to the well-known natural monument at Etrétat, and tiny Veulettes-sur-Mer [photos], while inland the beautiful River Seine wends its way through the countryside in a series of locks.  The Seine plays a great role in Haute Normandie.  Having its source in Burgundy, it slowly follows a winding journey to the sea.  Along the way, the Seine picks up silt which threatens its navigable waters.  In ancient history, the Seine was an open door for invaders such as the Vikings and Normans: they could simply enter France from the sea.  Today both tourists and barges ply the river between Paris and the coast.  It is along this winding path that one comes upon the ruins at Jumièges between the little villages of Duclair and Caudebec-en-Caux.  The Seine is not in a hurry, and you will find as you follow it, you, too, will not be in a hurry. 

The huge port of Le Havre, second in France only to Marseille, wasn't in existence until the 16th century. It was nearly completely destroyed in World War II, and as a result it is quite modern by Normandy standards.  For an idea of all there is to do and see in Le Havre, click on this page of their web site for photos and a video.

Important historic sites are abundant in Normandy, but some special ones should not be missed, such as the Benedictine Abbey at Jumièges. The abbey was founded in 634 by Saint Philibert, who became its first abbot.  The abbey grew, and at one time they could count nearly one thousand monks within its walls.  It was the favorite of the dukes of Normandy, it was a renowned religious center, and it was known for its work among the poor.  In the 9th century, however, the Normans burned it to the ground, and it was later rebuilt on a grander scale by William, Duke of Normandy.  Over the centuries the church was enlarged and renovated and reached its peak of fame in the eleventh century.  One of its abbots became the Archbishop of Canterbury in 1040.  It suffered during the 15th century English invasion and the Wars of Religion, and the abbey as a monastery finally ended with the French Revolution.  Its Norman architecture and soaring presence makes today's ruins dramatic as they clearly illustrate its former size and grand scale.  What can still be seen are the church itself with its two towers and west-facing façade, and some remnants of the library and cloisters. More details of the history of these amazing ruins can be found in the welcome center at the abbey. 

Just past Jumièges traveling eastward you will come upon the historic city of Rouen, Haute Normandie's capital, with its Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen made famous by the many paintings of Claude Monet.   But, be sure to visit Église de St-Ouen, the abbey church which began in the 7th century as a Benedictine abbey.  Larger than Rouen Cathedral and with a nave from the 15th century, a choir from the 14th, and beautiful stained glass windows from the 14th through 16th centuries, the church of St-Ouen is a monumental tribute to grand Gothic architecture.  And, the stained glass windows are not the only glorious features of the simple interior ~ its 19th century pipe organ is regarded as one of France's best.  It was built in 1890 by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll and housed  in a great oak case built in 1630. The organ has 3914 pipes!

Rouen has a fascinating history based upon a handshake between Rollo, the chief of the plundering Norsemen, and Charles the Simple, the King of France in 911, and was later the site of the execution of Joan of Arc.  The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen  offers up much of the history beginning with the 12th century stones in the foundations of its Tour St-Romain built by William the Conqueror only three years before he invaded England.  The tower soars into the Flamboyant Gothic style that creates the character of the rest of the west front of the cathedral. 

Rouen has such a wealth of fine buildings including the Gros-Horloge. a clock tower of splendid character and the ruins of the Church of St-Saveur destroyed during the French Revolution.  The Jeanne d'Arc Musée has a wax depiction of her life from childhood to her death at the stake.  Also worth a visit is the very modern Église Sainte-Jeanne d'Arc, a modern structure built in 1979. And, Rouen is a city for walking, for in the old part of the city one will find amazing cobblestone streets filled with ancient half-timbered (colombage) homes many centuries old and many landmarks telling of its amazing history.

Lillebonne is an interesting detour a few miles northeast of Le Havre.  It is here that a once thriving port existed, although today it is so silted over, one would think that impossible Julius Caesar chose Lillebonne in 51 BC as his administrative center, watching over the Seine Valley and the route to the coast.  He named it after his daughter Julia - Juliobona - and the name Lillebonne survived.  Here you will find the grass-covered remains of an amphitheatre that once held 25,000 Romans and Gauls - but no one knows what sort of performances they enjoyed.

Eure

The biggest attraction for people from the world over in this département has to be Claude Monet's home and gardens at Giverny.  The feeling you have when you meander through the gardens he designed and planted himself is one of being in one of those paintings!  You are seeing what he saw when he was painting!  It seems as though Monet is present, watching the visitors as they admire the lush gardens, streams, bridges, weeping willows and lily ponds.  There is a definite mystical atmosphere at Giverny, and it is a place every visitor to France must visit at least once.

But, Giverny is not all there is to the Eure.  At the center of the Fôret de Lyons, the former hunting grounds for the Dukes of Normandy, lies the little town of Lyons-la-Fôret.  Here visitors will enjoy the half-timbered houses and a pleasant covered marketplace.  Not far from there is the village of Les Andelys where one can visit Château Gaillard, built by Richard the Lionheart with over 6000 workers.  The entire fortress was completed in one year ~ an amazing feat in 1198 and anytime thereafter. His goal was to defend Rouen from the French, who took the castle in 1204 by entering by force through the latrines!

Another town with a grand cathedral is Evreux.  The Cathédrale de Notre-Dame is famous for its stained glass, and it is a Gothic structure with some Romanesque arches and Renaissance screens in the chapel.  The city was badly damaged in World War II, but it is worth a visit, not only to see the cathedral but its museums, parks and gardens and the archeological site of Gisacum.  This second century Gallo-Roman site, with evidence of thermal baths and a theatre, was uncovered in an 1801 excavation.

Of course, just driving through the Normandy countryside is a special event in itself.  Enjoy beautiful landscapes dotted with cows, fine restaurants in little villages serving local cuisine including the incredible cheese and butter only Normandy can produce, and, of course, sampling the cider or Calvados made from the abundant apples grown throughout the region.  No wonder Normandy is the weekend getaway for Parisians at any time of year!

Enjoy your time in Normandy!

When in the Eure, consider renting the charming Manoir de Berthouville, a beautifully appointed manor house in this calm and tranquil part of Normandy.  A former hunting lodge built in 1652, today it belongs to a well-respected interior designer from Boston.   The manoir was built during the reign of Louis XIV in the manner of Louis XIII and is in the style of the Place des Vosges in Paris. 

Its ten rooms are awash in sunlight and are exquisitely decorated. There are fireplaces on three floors, and rooms are refined with French-style paneled walls, magnificent woodwork, period lighting and French furniture, and fine antiques.   Polished parquet floors and 12-foot high ceilings add to the elegance of this fine home.  French doors lead to the gardens and the five-acre park surrounding the manoir.  It offers four bedrooms for six to eight people, and guest rooms are comfortably furnished and spacious, all having large windows to take in the views and the lovely parkland.  Your stay at Manoir de Berthouville will allow you to immerse yourself in French country life!

As an American who has lived in Provence for 16 years, I find that what makes this area so special to me is its long history and the fact that its people are fiercely attached to their traditions.  For example, even the smallest village has an annual fête votive to honor its patron saint.  The many colorful festivals that take place throughout the year are a treat that most tourists never experience.  September is a good month to enjoy them, so here are some of the most important ones.

Wine Festival - Cassis

The much appreciated white and rosé wines of Cassis are the reason for a festival on the first Sunday of September.  This small port to the east of Marseille always makes for a great visit, but on this day you can taste their wine and take part in a colorful festival as well.  All the local vignerons display their wine and offer tastings to everyone.  First there is a blessing at the church and then, in late morning, groups in Provençal costume dance to the music of the galoubet and tambourin (Provençal fife and drum) in the square in front of the church.  There is also a procession on horseback with flower-bedecked carriages.  All told, it is everything you'd expect of a festival in Provence.  [Information: http://www.cassis.fr]

Blessing of the Calissons

If you prefer tasting to swallowing, then there's a similar festival on the same day each year in Aix-en-Provence.  They celebrate their 'Calissons', a tiny sweet pastry that has been the symbol of Aix since the 17th century.  It seems that in 1630 the population of Aix was suffering terribly from the plague, and one of the town officials made a vow of an annual offering to the patron saint of the town if the plague would end.  By September, his wish had been fulfilled and the church bells rang every first of September in celebration.  At one of the first of these masses the calissons appeared, was blessed and distributed to the faithful.  This tradition continued until it was stopped by the French Revolution, but it was revived in the early 1990s and now is one of the most important festivals in Provence.

The caisson is definitely a product of this area ~ made with ground almonds (from the trees that grow so well here) plus sugared local melon and oranges, baked in a mold in the shape of an almond and topped with white icing.  On the day of the blessing, the calissons arrive in large baskets lined with Provençal fabrics and carried by women in costume.  There's a long parade which includes all the local bakers (in their work clothes) plus, men, women and children in Provençal costume.  The short Mass usually begins at 3 PM with the long parade filing into the Church of St Jean de Malte, along with the Bishop and followed by the crowd.  After the service, the calissons are offered to all in a nearby square, often accompanied by music and dancing. [Information:  http://www.aixenprovencetourism.com]

Fête Votive - St-Rémy

This normally takes place during the last week of September and the first week of October.  These fêtes - in almost every town in France - serve to honor the patron saint of the village.  Lost during the time of the French revolution, they have been reinstated to become less of a religious celebration; bull races are now the centerpiece of this festival.  You can also expect parades, fireworks and the usual 'ball' for the townspeople.  It's very authentic. [Information: http://www.saintremy-de-provence.com]

Les Premices du Riz - Arles

In mid-September, this festival celebrates the local rice harvest with floats, people in Provençal costume, horses and, as is common in Arles, a feria (bullfights).  Back in 1942 the Camarguais and the Arlesiens began to plant rice in the marshy area that separates them, as a way to desalinate the land that had suffered heavy flooding from the Mediterranean.  This was meant as a temporary measure to clean out the area so that they could once again plant vineyards.  But, the rice did so well that rice has become a major crop.  In fact, the Camargue produces more rice than China!  [Information: http://www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr]

And for those who can read a bit of French, September offers 'Les Journées de Patrimoine' ~ two or three days in mid-September which follows a different theme each year and celebrates the national heritage.  All museums are free for visitors, and there are a number of special programs in most French towns.  If you happen to be in France at that time, just visit your local Office de Tourisme to get the program.  [Editors note: at this time of Patrimoine all state-owned monuments and châteaux are open to the public at no charge, and many privately-owned châteaux are encouraged to open their doors to visitors ~ giving access to visitiors that is not available at any other time of year.]