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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE FOUR |
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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE FOUR |
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Just next door to the cathedral, literally, is the Palais de Berbie, which had been a bishop's residence in the 13th century. Today it is Musée Toulouse-Lautrec, with a collection of over 600 of the painter's works -- the world's largest collection. A visit there will open one's eyes to Lautrec's earlier accomplishments before he created all those well-known music hall scenes and posters representing French cabaret life of the late 19th century. In fact, if you are seeking those more popular and famous of his works, you will be sorely disappointed because few are displayed in this museum. Instead, there are self-portraits and smaller paintings and drawings -- several floors of them. It provides a different perspective of a man who later became as famous for his lifestyle as his art.
Castres is another of the Tarn's larger towns, most well known for its Musée Goya, with three major works by the artist on exhibit. Next to the museum on the way to the River Agout are formal gardens designed by André Le Notre in the 17th century -- he is most famous for his designs of the gardens at Vaux-le-Vicomte, Dampierre, and elsewhere in the Île-de-France, with his most impressive and well-known accomplishment the gardens at Versailles. Castres is the birthplace of Socialist Jean Jaurès (you no doubt have come across many a city street named after him) who was the father of the French Socialist Party and assassinated in 1914. The city is a textile center and has been since the 14th century. If you are fond of street markets as we are, every day but Wednesday is market day in Castres, and it is a colorful affair. Such offerings as lavender, potpourris, dried fruit, fresh figs, handmade baskets and locally produced honey are only some of what you will find. A few miles south of Castres (take the N112 to Mazamet and then the D118 out of Mazamet) you will find the Parc Régional du Haut Languedoc on the borders with the Aude and Hérault. This park is vast with the westernmost portion just south of Castres and the eastern part bounded on the north by the Monts de Lacaune range and the south by the Monts de L'Espinouse range in the direction of Bédarieux in the Hérault. This is country created for those who are fond of the outdoors and trekking -- there are only about three minor roads within the westernmost park, one following the Gorges de l'Arnette. Black Mountain is a ridge running east to west and is the dominant feature of the park. Drama
lies to the north of the département as well. It may
not be the Gorges du Tarn, but the Gorges de l'Aveyron on the border
with that département and just to the north and northwest
of the town of Vaour is spectacular. Oddly, the Gorges du Tarn is in the
Aveyron and the Gorges de l'Aveyron is in the Tarn -- each, of course,
named after the river that courses through their depths and not
the département where they are located. Not far from the Gorges de l'Aveyron is the town of Cordes-sur-Ciel, a village at the crest of a hill so typical in the south of France. A town excommunicated by the Church during the Cathar wars, Cordes was later devastated by the plague and was barely in existence at the beginning of the 20th century. One Yves Brayer, an artist, took charge of the restoration of Cordes in the 1940s -- working around the well-preserved ramparts and gates built in 1222 by Raymond VII of Toulouse. Visitors will enjoy houses from the 14th century such as the Maison du Grand Fauconnier and Maison due Grand Veneur. The streets in Cordes are extremely steep and cobbled and its hilltop location undeniably beautiful. It is said that despite its restoration and prominent location, "Cordes exudes a sense of loss." Dependent upon tourism (all the industries of centuries past such as textiles and leather are gone), Cordes offers 'medieval' crafts today to those who visit its shops and marketplaces.
Other activities for visitors to the region include enjoying the 235 mile long River Tarn itself -- its name is derived from 'tarnis', the Latin for both rapid and walled in. Those words accurately describe the river that originates on the mountain slopes of the Parc National des Cévennes in the Lozère département and continues westward until it merges with the Garonne at Moissac in the aptly named département of Tarn-et-Garonne. From walking paths along its banks in Albi to sports fishing, to visiting the Gorges du Tarn itself, the river offers something for everyone. Only 20 kilometers east of Albi is the enchanting Presqu'ile d'Ambialet created by a loop in the River Tarn where it turns sharply to rejoin itself creating an isthmus, said to be the most narrow in Europe, and separating the village of Ambialet in two: Upper Ambialet and Lower Ambialet. The prominent Notre Dame de l'Oder, an eleventh century priorial chapel which has a Roman portal and vaulted apses, dominates the scene. [Editor's note: A map of the region was not included with this article because to show the necessary detail, a map would be too large for the page. We suggest that you access Michelin's Road Atlas France which provides the most detailed maps available -- and remember not to travel without them.]
Accommodations
in the Tarn range from campsites to luxury lodging. We recommend
Château de Garrevaques near Revel just west of Castres. Garrevaques
offers bed and breakfast accommodations in the château, dinners with
advance reservations and all modern comforts in an historic family home. We hope we have given you some incentive to visit the Tarn the next time you are in France. The Internet is a good source of information on the various events, pastimes, cities and towns, museums and lodging in the region -- remember to click on the links we have provided within the text of this feature. The Tarn is a region rich in beauty, history and a warm and friendly people. Don't miss it! "The Tarn
is a land of tolerance, freedom and prosperity.
Buying Property in France This is the first in a series of articles we will carry in FRANCE On Your Own covering the different aspects of buying French real estate.
Buying in France has almost become the most fashionable thing you can do, and what could be more fashionable and sophisticated than buying a property in Provence or on the French Riviera at bargain prices? Is it a simple process? It's actually no more complex than buying a house anywhere and is, in many ways, better and safer than in most other countries including England and the United States. French law concerning property is a little more like Scottish law than English law and "gazumping", for example, is not possible. If you make a written offer on a property that is accepted by the seller, you will usually be expected to put down a deposit of 10% of the purchase price after a seven-day cooling off period, during which time the property is essentially blocked in your favor. [Editor's note: 'gazumping' is something that apparently can occur in England and is defined as a situation in which the seller of a house accepts a purchase offer after having previously accepted a lower offer from someone else.] All normal property transactions must pass through a 'notaire' (notary) -- the only person who can make the searches and obtain certain legal documents necessary for the transaction to move forward. The choice of a notary is in the hands of the purchaser, as indeed are the 'notary fees' which, depending upon the selling price, can be as much as 7.5% on older properties or as little as 1.5% to 2.5% on newer ones. One should note that prices of property are advertised exclusive of these charges in most instances. The notary does not get the entire fee. Most of it goes to the French government -- surprise, surprise! Properties on the Riviera and in Provence have for a long time been more expensive than their English counterparts due to huge cosmopolitan demand. For the first time in a long time they are now cheap in comparison due to the enormous growth in prices in the UK. This, together with the many low cost airlines flying into Nice and price increases elsewhere in France, makes it an ideal time to buy a second home or principal residence in this sought-after area. Many people in London are selling their homes for huge sums and starting to buy a cheaper place there plus a home in France as an investment that will start moving prices up as demand increases. Good examples of bargains to be had include:
The above
article was contributed by Richard Green,
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The
small town of 
Also,
there is a recently modernized dependency on the grounds, the Gamekeeper's
Cottage, with five bedrooms, three bathrooms, a large kitchen, a dining
room, two salons, a laundry room, office, Internet connections, and
all amenities for a family vacation. Visit 