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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE TWO |
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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE TWO |
| ICI ET LÀ |
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in France or France-related events taking place in the United States & elsewhere between now and the publication of our next issue. In France. . . o President Emmanuel Macron's "honeymoon" with the French appeared to be fading until very recently as the French economy improves and France's status in Europe is becoming more influential. On November 18th his party named a new leader, Christophe Castaner, a 51 year-old, smooth-talking, ultra-loyal government spokesman. He takes the helm of the LREM (Republic on the Move) party six months after Macron's political victory. He is hand-picked by Macron and is a former Socialist MP, and he was chosen unopposed to be the leader of the movement to the consternation of some of the party's grassroots members. It is an unpaid job lasting for three years. Some 100 party members rebelled against this party action, and many, including trade unionists, are saying Macron favors the rich with his tax policies. Membership growth in the party has stagnated in recent months. Many are saying that Castaner is what the party needs now as he is close to Macron and on good terms with the ordinary party faithful. [AFP] o France's ' king of rock and roll', Johnny Hallyday, has died at the age of 74 of lung cancer diagnosed in March. The French singer, born Jean-Philippe Smet to a French mother and Belgian father, began in the 1950s introducing American rock 'n' roll to France where they called him the 'French Elvis Presley'. He was a great success in France despite having had a difficult life including an unhappy youth, an attempted suicide, three failed marriages and many ups and downs in his career. Although not well known outside of France, he was enormously popular throughout his career, and his fourth wife, Laeticia, 32 years his junior, said until the end he lived his life for his fans who loved and idolized him. One million French people turned out on the Champs Elysées in the bitter cold to witness his funeral procession on Saturday, December 9th. Celebrities, two former French presidents, a prime minister and cultural and literary stars joined his family for the two-hour funeral service at the Church of La Madeleine. Update: Johnny Hallyday was buried on the Caribbean Island of St Barts, as was his wish. His first wife and his fans in France are disappointed that he was not buried in France. [AFP & Los Angeles Times] o French pensioners, on average, retire at age 60.2 compared to those in other industrialized countries, and they have the longest retirement in the developed world as well as some of the highest retirement income. Those over 65 had income higher than working people equivalent to 103.4 percent of the national average. France also has one of the lowest levels of poverty among those over 65 (3.6 percent), just behind Denmark (3.2 percent) and far ahead of South Korea with one of the highest rates at 45.7 percent. French pensioners may be the envy of the world now, but reforms by the last government might require the workers to stay on the job longer. By 2035, they will have to spend 43 years at work taking the average retirement age to 64. [AFP] o Airbnb is once again in the news in France but this time over tax avoidance. The government summoned the managers of Airbnb to demand answers over the payment system, Payoneer, by which homeowners are paid for their rentals without having the money go through their bank accounts. Budget Minister Gerald Darmanin said he had become aware of the possibility of 'fiscal optimization' or even complicity in laundering offered by Airbnb, and has requested a meeting next week with the company bosses. Update: On December 11th, Airbnb agreed to stop using Payoneer as their payment system in France. Airbnb will also cap its central Paris rentals to 120 nights per year. The government sees this as not enforcing the law which covers the entire city and is working to change that. Also, the Mayor's office in Paris has told Airbnb and other short term rental companies that all their ads must have an official registration number in the ad; any ads posted that don't show the number, must be taken down or they will face legal action. [AFP] o
Planning to Ski in France this
winter? If so, you may be wondering just where to
go. Condé Nast Traveler
magazine's Readers' Choice Awards
for the top 15 best European ski resorts was just published, and France
had six of the favorites: No. 15 Les Arcs/La Plagne, No. 14 Val
Thorens, No. 10 Courchevel, No. 8 Chamonix-Mont Blanc, No. 5 Val
d'Isère and No. 4 Megève. Granted, these are all in
the Alps, but don't let that stop you from skiing in the
Pyrénées, frequently praised for its flora and fauna,
less expensive but recently improved resorts, being less crowded and
more French! Although the mountains are not as high as the Alps,
there are 35 resorts. One skier from the UK lists these among his
favorites: Saint-Lary
Soulan, La
Mongie/Barèges, Peyragudes, and Piau-Engaly. Visit their sites to see what is
offered and information about altitudes, facilities and
locations.
o French wine country in Burgundy held its annual Christie's wine auction in November, but buyers were encouraged to try something new: Beaune's beef reared on the byproducts of the wine-making process and crushed black currants. The result, so we are told, is meat that is tasty with black currant and grape flavors. So far, only two cattle were raised on this method, but the breeder insured that they were reared peacefully and naturally. [AFP] o Corsica nationalists are demanding more freedom after their gains in recent elections, but they want autonomy, not independence. The heads of both leading parties rule out any imminent bid for independence from France. One leader admitted that there is no groundswell support for independence like that in Catalonia, Spain, and he noted that Catalonia is far wealthier than Corsica. He did say that if a majority of Corsicans want independence in the next 10 or 15 years no one will be able to oppose it Corsica has its own language and special administrative status, and at times a very troubled relationship with the mainland. [AFP] o Degas Dans Dessin is the current exhibit at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris and will continue through February 25 commemorating the centenary of the artist's death. It focuses on his 20-year friendship with Paul Valéry. Degas' inherited wealth gave him the freedom to move in and out of Paris' art scene and sell paintings at will. Valéry's text and Degas' paintings, sketches and drawings present the friends' similar interest in form, line and movement. More details at www.musee-orsay.fr. [adapted from France Today magazine]  o Être Moderne ~ Le MOMA Paris Exposition at The Fondation Vuitton in Paris is an exhibit on loan from New York's Museum of Modern Art ~ more than 200 masterpieces showing the fine collection and its extensive contribution to art. Enjoy this amazing building as well, designed by American architect Frank Gehry. The Fondation, shown in photo at left, is located at 8 av. du Mahatma Gandhi in Paris' 16th arrondissement, and the exhibit will continue until March 5, 2018. Read and see more at www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr/. 
DID YOU
KNOW? The first public
screening of a movie was by French brothers
o Pastels are featured at Le Petit Palais in Paris until April 8 ~ The Art of Pastels, from Degas to Redon ~ an exhibit of some 150 pastel works by 19th century artists. Details of the exhibit can be found at www.petitpalais.paris.fr. o Visit the Château de Versailles and you will be in the company of past visitors when you enjoy the exhibition of paintings of notables from the Siamese ambassadors to heads of state from every continent who paid court at Versailles. Until February 25. Further information at www.chateauversailles.fr/. o Napoleon: Images of the Legend, on loan from the Château de Versailles, is a collection of paintings, sculptures and furniture at the Musée des Beaux-Arts of Arras until November 4, 2018. The museum is located in the old Abbey of Saint-Vaast founded in 667 by Saint Auburt and named for Saint Vedast or Vaast (453-540), the first bishop of Arras. Saint Auburt, the seventh bishop of Arras, began to build an abbey for Benedictine monks on the site of the little chapel that Saint Vaast had erected in honor of Saint Peter. For more information about the exhibit and directions www.arras.fr.  o In 2018 France will commemorate the 100th year anniversary of the end of World War I. Some events in the next few months are: From December
2017 to August 2018 - Exhibition "LA BEAUTÉ
SAUVERA LE
MONDE" ~ Beauty will save the world ~ at Verdun, Meuse,
Lorraine.
This monumental photography exhibition delivers a strong message of
humanity and optimism through the presentation of huge pictures of
wonders of today's world. The moving views lead the visitors from
the Verdun Memorial Museum located on the WWI battlefield to the town
center of Verdun like a symbolic itinerary to celebrate the end of the
First World War, 100 years after. A cultural event based on the work of
Thierry Suzan, famous reporter for GEO magazine, recognized for
its high quality and in-depth investigated reports on the great aims on
Planet Earth. More information at: www.meusetourism.com
and www.tourisme-verdun.com
March 2018 is also when the reopening of the Armistice Clearing memorial site. On November 11, 1918, the Armistice was signed at 5:15AM. One hundred years later, the site will be prepared for the centennial commemorations with the newly designed 500m² extension and a new exhibition focusing on ten key phases from the WWI mobilization to WWII via the interwar period. The museum's famous Armistice Wagon will benefit from brand new showcasing, immersing visitors alternately in early morning hours and at dusk. Further information at Oise Tourism. April 2018 - Opening of the Sir John Monash Centre located at the Australian National Memorial near Villers-Bretonneux. The Centre is named for General Sir John Monash who led the Australian Corps with outstanding success on the Western Front in 1918, including the famous July 4, 1918 victory at Le Hamel which became a template for operations that followed. The Centre will be the hub of the existing Australian Remembrance Trail along the Western Front that links WWI sites of significance to Australia. It will be open to the public on Australia's Anzac Day 2018 (Wednesday, April 25). Visitors will be invited to follow an inspiring, emotional and educational journey. An interactive zone will provide information about the history of Australia, the reasons why the country become involved in the First World War, and the battles fought. One highlight will be provided through photos and films, with new technologies presenting an innovative and significant view of the past. Picture at right is an artist's rendering showing how the Centre will look when it opens to the public. Details available at www.dva.gov.au/commemorations-memorials-and-war-graves/memorials/war-memorials/france/sir-john-monash-centre
Throughout 2018, we will continue to apprise our readers of other
commemorative events planned for 2018 in France.
In
the US . . . o Klimt and Rodin: An Artistic Encounter an exhibit that combines 33 of Klimt's paintings with 25 of Rodin's sculptures ~ they met at Rodin's request in 1909 ~ commemorating the 100th anniversary of their deaths in 1918. At the Legion of Honor, San Francisco through January 28th. Information at www.legionofhonor.famsf.org. o Atlanta, Georgia's Stubbins Gallery at the Georgia Tech College of Design presents Nouvelles Richesses Exhibition: New Architectural Work in France until January 7, 2018. The exhibit showcases contemporary architectural projects by the new generation of French architects while focusing on sustainability, affordability and urban design. Details at www.france-atlanta.org. o Beginning March 25, 2018, Air France will offer non-stop service between Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and Paris' Charles de Gaulle with up to five weekly flights. The route will be serviced by a Boeing 777-200 aircraft equipped with the latest long-haul travel cabins for Business, Premium Economy and Economy, with a capacity of 280 to 312 seats. This service is in addition to current flights operated as part of the joint venture with Delta Airlines. [AFP]  o Car buffs won't want to miss the show Citroën: The Man, The Marque, The Mystique at the Mullin Automotive Museum in Oxnard, California until May 1, 2018. We love the 2CV, Europe's first affordable, mass-produced automobile. This retrospective of 46 historic Citroën models will please everyone. The exhibit celebrates the Gallic design, beauty and French technical expertise of André Citroën as it displays cars from the entire history of the company. Learn much more at mullinautomotivemuseum.com. o Those with a little bit of detective in them will want to see Treasures on Trial: The Art and Science of Detecting Fakes. See for yourself the cleverest and most expensive deceptions in this fascinating exhibition, the tricks of master forgers, what is faked and why, and some scientific methods of spotting fakes. Test yourself to see if you can detect a fake from the real thing. Plenty of items on display to test your ability. At the Winterthur Museum, Winterthur, Delaware until January 7. Information at www.winterthur.org. And
elsewhere . . .
o Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is the exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London through February 18th. See some of the designer's most daring and successful designs ~ the creation of the shift dress is one example ~ from his couture house on Avenue George V in Paris. Beginning in 1937, Balenciaga bucked the design trends and was an immediate success. See more than 100 pieces crafted by this master of couture. Information at www.vam.ac.uk. o Cézanne Portraits, from collections around the world, will be together for the first time at the National Portrait Gallery, London, including works that have never been on display in the UK. Enjoy some 50 exceptional works depicting his unique insight into his subjects, as well as his creation of complementary pairs and different versions of the same subject. More information at www.npg.org.uk. o Madrid, Spain's Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza will host Picasso-Lautrec, a comparative study of two artists who never met. Lautrec's work influenced Picasso's understanding of art and his creative vision. The exhibit ends on January 21. Details can be found at www.museothyssen.org.  PYRÉNÉES MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE . . . with Paul Williams
 Discover the
Pyrénées on foot with Pyrénées
Mountain Adventure. The Pyrénées mountain
range separates France from Spain, and escaping occupied France into
neutral Spain during World War II meant crossing these mountains.
They represented both a physical barrier blocking the way and a
gateway to freedom. Come and follow in the footsteps of those who
made the crossing, and experience what it was like. Learn about
who crossed and why and about those who made the crossing possible.You may choose one of the better known Escape and Evasion lines like the Chemin de la Liberté/Freedom Trail, or perhaps you have the Escape and Evasion report of a family member and want to trace their actual footsteps across the Pyrénées. A guided mountain walking holiday with a difference Although it may be challenging at times, there will also be fun and enjoyment, and you will leave the Pyrénées with some wonderful memories having learned and seen a great deal. There is an enormous feeling of pride and satisfaction upon reaching Spain having crossed over the mountains. Pyrénées Mountain Adventure believes that through the adventure of walking along the route of an Escape and Evasion line, that pushes you out of your comfort zone, comes discovery ~ discovery about yourself, those you are adventuring with and those who walked to freedom along with those who risked their lives to help them. Leading on from discovery comes respect ~ self-respect, respect for your trekking companions and, ultimately, respect for the escapees, evaders and the brave men and women of the Escape and Evasion networks.    Excellent Customer Care Pyrénées Mountain Adventure is a proudly independent trekking company. Because they are small and flexible, they can offer excellent customer care from initial inquiries through planning and preparation of a dream itinerary. The team will work with you to turn your holiday experience into the perfect Pyrénées mountain adventure. Visit their web site to see feedback from clients who have enjoyed walks and treks with them. Earth Friendly Unlike some trekking companies whose commitment to sustainable practices is half-hearted, Pyrénées Mountain Adventure is earth- and people-friendly and strives to choose the minimum impact option in every area of the business, always! All staff members who lead groups encourage the preservation of the unspoiled nature we journey through, leading by example and following the principles of Minimum Impact Trekking: touch the earth lightly, take only photographs, leave only footprints. Pyrénées
Mountain Adventure can be reached by email at pyreneesmountainadventure@hotmail.com
Visit their web site at http://www.pyreneesmountainadventure.com Or telephone and speak with a member of the team at +33.6.52.06.12.50 (mobile France) or +44.7949.726.549 (mobile UK).
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