o   Russia launched its first train to France on September 23, 2010.  Traveling for 50 hours between Moscow and Nice, this sleeper train runs from Russia to France on Thursdays (arriving in Nice on Saturdays) and takes about 50 hours to make the journey.  To return in the other direction, the train departs Nice on a Sunday evening around 7:20 and arrives in Moscow on Tuesday, just before midnight.  Tickets cost between 360 euros for second class and up to 1200 euros for a deluxe, private compartment.  Small dogs and birds may travel along with their owners if they book an entire compartment.  Two restaurant cars are provided between Moscow and Brest (Belarus, not France) by Russian Railways, and two restaurant cars between Warsaw and Nice are provided by Polish Railways.  Menus are in English and Russian, and the restaurant staff speaks Russian, Polish and English.  The route from Moscow to Nice is through Belarus, Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria and Italy before it reaches Menton and Nice, France. Note: Passengers who are not Russian will require a transit visa to travel through Belarus territory. These can be obtained from the Belarus Embassy. 

o  One of our favorite Paris museums is the Musée Jacquemart-André.  Its Romantic history alone enchants visitors, and until January 24, 2011, the show Rubens, Poussin et les peintres du XVII siècle, will offer a look at the Flemish and neo-Classical artistic movements of the seventeenth century and their influence upon one another. For further information please visit http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com.

o  The American Church of Paris will hold its annual Christmas Market on Saturday, November 20th from 11 AM until 5 PM.  Proceeds benefit various missions and charities as noted at the bottom.  Please refer to the flyer below for details.

o   New:  A  rail station crêche opened in August in the commuter station at Roanne, northeast of Lyon.  This convenient daycare center is the first of its kind in France and allows parents to drop off their children on the way to work and pick them up at the end of the day.  There are openings for nine children, and priority is given to parents who have season tickets for the local TER network.  The children can be left as early as 6:45 AM and retrieved as late as 7 PM or later when trains are delayed.  Totally funded by the SNCF (the French national railway), and local and regional governmental agencies, the project is run by an outside agency employing four staff members.  A national initiative by SNCF is under way to improve commuter services.  A second railway crêche is being built in Saint-Chamond in the Loire, again for workers from Lyon.  A third is planned for Alsace for commuters working in Strasbourg.

o  Passings:  French World War II flying ace, Marcel Albert, died at the age of 92 in Harlingen, Texas, USA on August 23 at the age of 92.  Albert's heroic acts during the war as a member of a squadron based in the Soviet Union earned him the title of Hero of the Soviet Union.  In 2009 Albert was named a grand officer in the French Order of the Legion of Honor... Alain Corneau, acclaimed French filmmaker, died at the age of 67 on August 31.  His most notable work was Tous les Matins du Monde (All the Mornings of the World) starring Gerard Depardieu and his son, Guillaume Depardieu.  His last film, Love Crime, starring Kristin Scott Thomas, opened in France in mid-August... Two-time Tour de France champion, Laurent Fignon (1983 and 1984), died at the age of 50 of advanced cancer of the digestive system. He was praised for his fighting spirit, both on the cycling tour and fighting the disease that finally took his life.

o  Weight loss guru, Michel Montignac, died on August 22 of prostate cancer.  His low glycemic eating plan was famous around the world for its effectiveness and as a way to achieve both a lower weight and a healthier lifestyle.  He once said in an interview that diets were never effective in the long run and that losing weight has little to do with cutting calories and taking exercise. "Counting calories does not interest me," he told the New York Times in 1993. "All traditional methods of dieting have amounted to a myth as big as communism and, like communism, are destined to collapse."  The 'Montignac method' made him a controversial figure. He explained how he believed his eating plan was different from others: "There is no deprivation and it is not a diet. It is more a lifestyle. It is designed not only to aid weight loss in the short term, but also to help people maintain their weight loss in the long term by advocating healthy eating habits, which can also prevent illness and disease."  His simple eating plan and healthy recipes were well known in Europe since the late 1980s and copied by many others later with little or no credit given to him.  For those of us who read his books and knew that the plan he devised was successful, he will be sorely missed.

o  Wedding in France?  Perhaps a fairy tale setting in the Loire region is the ideal venue.  Château de Challain can offer you the perfect setting and assist with all arrangements to make yours the perfect marriage ceremony and reception.  Click here http://www.destinationluxury.com/wi/chateau-challain-angers-france/ and here http://vimeo.com/14245277 to see a videos of  recent weddings at the château.  For more information contact inquiry@au-chateau.com and put "Challain" in the subject line.

o  Living in or interested in Normandy?  A new, online English-language monthly magazine is now being published: N4Normandy.  It is chock full of interesting and useful information about the region's history, people, places, food and so much more!  To subscribe please go to http://tinyurl.com/n4subscribe and for information contact greg.hughes@n4normandy.com

o  Château de Roque Bas in the Bordeaux region can be rented by the week for family events or gatherings of friends.  But, the owners have added some new amenities:  In high season they have a wonderful French chef (fluent in English) who was trained by
Paul Bocuse and whose career experience was at many top restaurants in London and St Emilion. Christophe will prepare and serve wonderful seasonal menus using local produce for either lunch or dinner. He can give cooking lessons at the same time and advise on wines to accompany each dish. A truly wonderful gastronomique experience not to be missed.  And, for those who are looking for a relaxing getaway, the Château now offers a trained masseuse who will come to the château to provide massage or other general beauty treatments for both men and women.  Visit the château with a click of your mouse here.

o  On exhibit at Paris' Grand Palais is France 1500, entre Moyen Age et Renaissance focusing on what is considered a very creative but often overlooked period in France's cultural history.  A time of economic recovery and territorial expansion was intertwined with artistic achievement and accomplishment.  The exhibit presents works of paintings, sculptures, stained glass, tapestries, rare gold objects and illuminated manuscripts.  Through January 10, 2011.  Also, at the Grand Palais through January 24 is Claude Monet (1840 - 1926).  With emphasis on the evolution of the artist's career and is considered one of the most important exhibits of his work in several decades.  Over 200 pieces of his work will be shown, including some that were unknown until now. Contact http://www.grandpalais.fr.

o  COOKING IN FRANCE:  Many French châteaux offer cooking courses for their guests.  Book a room or, in some cases, rent the château , and sign up at any of the following châteaux:  Château de Chambost in the Rhône, Château de la Barre in the Pays de la Loire, Le Pavillon de Galon in Provence, Château de Vaulogé (Italian cooking) in the Pays de la Loire, Château de Garrevaques in the Midi-Pyrénées, Château Juvenal in Provence, Château les Hauts in Normandy, Château Robert in Bordeaux and Château Soussac in Bordeaux.  Click on their names to visit their web pages, see their beautiful accommodations and learn more about cooking with them..

o  The Centre Pompidou has several exhibits for visitors to Paris including the work of Mexican-born artist Gabriel Orozco showcasing about 80 of his drawings, photos, sculptures and paintings through January 3, 2011; The Arman retrospective presents the painter's experimental art and assemblages - nearly 120 works will be on display until January 15, 2011. Details from http://www.centrepompidou.fr.

o  The influential Médici family amassed a vast collection of masterpieces in the 300 years that they were patrons of the arts.  Trésors de Médicis is the exhibit at the Musée Maillol-Fondation Dina Vierny through January 31, 2011.  This presentation of over 150 pieces in the collection demonstrates the Médicis taste in the decorative arts, sculpture, paintings, music, poetry, the sciences and more.  More information at http://www.museemaillol.com.

o  Strasbourg's Musée d'Art Moderne et Contemporaine and FRAC Alsace presents De leur temps (3) 10 ans de création en France: le Prix Marcel Duchamp through February 13, 2011.  This is an exhibit of contemporary French art showcasing not only the winner of the Prix Marcel Duchamp but the work of all the nominees as well.  Over 150 works are on display from private collections and public institutions.  Information at http://www.musees-strasbourg.org.

o  Until May 8, 2011, Volume 2 of Une Histoire Idéale de la Mode Contemporaine 1971-2008 will be the exhibit at the Musée de la Mode et du Textile - a show spotlighting contemporary fashion.  Volume 2 begins in the 1990s with the emergence of minimalist designers.  (Volume 1 runs through November 24.)  Details available at http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr.

In the US . . .

o  The San Diego Museum of Art presents Toulouse-Lautrec's Paris through December 12th.  Artist, aristocrat, and colorful chronicler of the Belle Époque, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec (1864–1901) was one of the greatest artists of the late nineteenth century. For the first time in 20 years, more than 100 works by Toulouse-Lautrec will be shown together at The San Diego Museum of Art.  Learn more, watch videos and see behind the scenes at the museum as the exhibit was being installed at http://www.sdmart.org/art/exhibit/toulouse-lautrecs-paris.

o  Pierre Boulez: 85th Birthday Celebration offers one evening (December 6th) of the composer-conductor's work at Columbia University's Miller Theatre in New York City.  Information available at http://www.millertheatre.com.

o  From Impressionism to Modernism:  The Chester Dale Collection is the stunning exhibit of 84 French and American masterworks at the National Gallery of Art in Washington, DC through July 11, 2011.  Wall Street mogul Chester Dale and his artist/critic wife managed to build a collection of some of the finest art of the late 19th and early 20th centuries including Picassos, Renoirs and two of Monet's views of Rouen Cathedral.  For information visit http://www.nga.gov.

o  Millet and Rural France is the title of an exhibit through May 30, 2011 at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston.  Jean-François Millet was born into a farming family and the rural genre was his specialty.  This exhibit shows the  influence of the old masters and the Impressionism and Post-Impressionism that would follow.  Details available at http://www.mfa.org.

o  Los Angeles' Getty Center will present Illuminated Manuscripts in the exhibit Imagining the Past in France, 1250-1500 with more than 40 works chronicling the lives of such important figures as Alexander the Great and Charlemagne.  There is a 13th century copy of the legend of the Holy Grail and a 15th century manuscript by Jean Fouquet.  November 16th through February 6th.  More information at http://www.getty.edu.

o   Treasures of Napoléon will be on exhibit at the Missouri History Museum in St Louis from November 21 through April 3, 2011.  More than 250 historical artifacts, paintings of the 'Little Corporal' and decorative art offer a window into the man.  Even the clothing he wore in exile on St Helena will be on display.  For details visit http://www.mohistory.org.

o  Nashville, Tennessee's Frist Center for the Visual Arts will exhibit art on loan from Paris' Musée d'Orsay which is currently undergoing renovations for its 25th anniversary.  Birth of Impressionism: Masterpieces from the Musée d'Orsay includes 100 works by Monet, Courbet, Manet, Renoir, Bourguereau and others.  Through January 23, 2011.  Information available at http://www.fristcenter.org.

o  Castles around the world...there is a new web site to visit if you enjoy looking at (or possibly visiting) castles, chateaus and manor houses.  The site focuses on famous castles, castle architecture, Medieval life, warfare, armor and weapons, the Crusades and Crusader castles, and heraldry.  Check it out at http://www.castlesandmanorhouses.com.

                                                                                                                           by Arnold Hogarth

Bonjour means "Good Day" in French. Everyone knows that; but there's more to it. It is not a casual utterance in France. It's not  "How are you doing?" or "Hi".  It is in a category of its own, and when in France, if a conversation doesn't begin with it, an immediate cloud of suspicion and scorn rises. 

One morning, while running, I became lost. Up the way, on a corner, stood a gendarme talking to a citizen in a casual friendly manner. I was running through the Montmartre district, not far from the famed Moulin Rouge night club, heading toward the Sacre Coeur Church.  Even though it stands prominently on one of the highest points in Paris, I was buried in canyons of unbroken rows of five story buildings. The sky was flat, there were no shadows and it was impossible to tell in what direction I was heading. I had already taken a guess at the last intersection that spun five streets off in non-symmetrical directions and was approaching another étoile (star) where I could see as many as six streets radiating from its center. A wrong turn there could send me off to Düsseldorf!

As I approached, the gendarme's conversation was ending, and the citizen was leaving.   I asked the way to the Sacre Coeur. The young gendarme stared at me with a sour look and closed lips. I repeated, "Excuse me, can you tell me which way to the Sacre Coeur?" He just stared. I looked down to see if my running jersey had coffee stains or my pants had fallen off.  I looked at him, he looked at me, and then he said, v-e-r-y slowly, in a tutorial tone, "Bonjour, Monsieur." It was then I realized I had broken the 'law'.

Sometimes I still forget, especially when just arriving in Paris. I will dash into the boulangerie and say in my best French, "I'll take three baguettes, s'il vous plait" ~ and even though I get the s'il vous plait right (another 'law), I forget the Bonjour.  As a result, there is usually much consternation. The machinery grinds to a halt, patrons freeze, eyebrows raise ~ and until the matter is cleared up there will be no move by the clerk in the direction of the baguette bin.  Then, from the clerk, comes an icy stare and a slowly pronounced, like giving instructions to a four year-old, "Bonjour Monsieur."

This "bonjour" thing is not to be taken lightly. It's serious stuff, and the way the Parisian women speak it in their characteristic melodic manner, it is music to the ears of even the most ferocious savage.  So serious is this ritual, I was told later by a long time Parisian resident, that the Paris Police Academy teaches new recruits not to answer, or engage, unless absolutely necessary, until the magic word is rendered. The theory being that it has a calming effect, slows things down, and allows people to take a breath and proceed in a more calm and rational manner. And when you think about it, it makes perfect sense. It is a wonderful tradition; and, oh ~ it's so nice to be polite.